Ok, Nickel+metal-hydride-ster, I'll give it my best shot from memory and
what I can find to work with? LOL :)
Page 6
The contacts are not to both be closed at the same time, it's either one side
or the other (take your pick) but in an FN-16a the left hand side is "down" or
"dropped away". So its "N" or "normal" and the other side is "R" or "reverse"...
http://www.ansaldo-sts.com/EN/AnsaldoST ... _Relay.pdf
"DP" relays have the same setup like a DP-25 power switch control relay.
P = "polorized"
For those that are interested but ain't got an FN-16a handy, ;)
check out the front label...
http://www.hornwhistleboard.com/viewtop ... 11&p=25204
{ignore the dots, ascii art + HTML + variable spaced font don't mix }
{if you aren't using the default font it ain't my fault ;}
.... 1N______1H_______1R
..... | ......... | ......... |
(-)__|__XLE__|__XRE__|__(+ battery)
XLE = crossing left bulb element
XRE = crossing right bulb element
___|___ = three wires
... ^ = one connection
I always thought of it as 2 boxes. {shrug}
See it? :)
Before the relay's first-rock, the XRE will be lit and...
when the relay rocks all the way over, the XRE with be "shunted" out and...
the XLE will light.
While the relay is in mid-stroke both bulbs will be dimly lit. :)
To energize the FN-16a put battery on the two rear-most terminals marked
+ - in the Bakelite "plate"...
Page 10
http://www.ansaldo-sts.com/EN/AnsaldoST ... _Relay.pdf
The special oil they mentioned there was whale oil from William F Nye Co. :)
The contacts in one FN-16a can carry enough current for all the 10v 25w
bulbs on a set of "crossing bells" and gate lights too, easy. And do it for
friggin years on end in normal service. The rocking mechanism's pivot pins
and armature would do them in if lightning didn't get 'em first.
Alvin in AZ