Mike's Railroad Crossing Forum

So last year I finally got the bug to go through put one of my flasher signals up. Keep in mind I've never done this before. Never did anything with concrete. As such I was very very careful to fully research what I was doing. I had 811 come out to verify nothing was in the ground where I wanted to dig. I carefully measured and cut four sheets of plywood to create the form for the footing. I dug the 27 square foot hole with a shovel. I used 1.25" conduit to run electric through the concrete. I purchased four 1" x 24" galvanized anchor bolts. I added rebar between them. I had seen pictures of how bolts were secured in place as concrete was added. I pounded in an 8-foot galvanized rod into the ground and ran a braided copper line between it and one of the anchor bolts. Yes, I should have painted the mast before putting anything on it but my deadline was the first snow, which I barely made, and I didn't have paint yet (I went with Rustoleum aluminum, which is a bit too shiny for my taste). As it is, much of what is currently on the signal is temporary. My initial plan was to put up a teardrop bell, US&S lights, cast two-sided crossbuck, and cat eyes Stop on Red Signal sign. A few of those things need to be primed and painted yet. The mini bell was heavy enough to man-handle up the ladder. To put that incredibly heavy stuff up there will require a cherry picker or scaffolding. The lights are aluminum WRRS. I can wait as I'm happy with this compromise for now.

WRRS-Chicago wrote:

So last year I finally got the bug to go through put one of my flasher signals up. Keep in mind I've never done this before. Never did anything with concrete. As such I was very very careful to fully research what I was doing. I had 811 come out to verify nothing was in the ground where I wanted to dig. I carefully measured and cut four sheets of plywood to create the form for the footing. I dug the 27 square foot hole with a shovel. I used 1.25" conduit to run electric through the concrete. I purchased four 1" x 24" galvanized anchor bolts. I added rebar between them. I had seen pictures of how bolts were secured in place as concrete was added. I pounded in an 8-foot galvanized rod into the ground and ran a braided copper line between it and one of the anchor bolts. Yes, I should have painted the mast before putting anything on it but my deadline was the first snow, which I barely made, and I didn't have paint yet (I went with Rustoleum aluminum, which is a bit too shiny for my taste). As it is, much of what is currently on the signal is temporary. My initial plan was to put up a teardrop bell, US&S lights, cast two-sided crossbuck, and cat eyes Stop on Red Signal sign. A few of those things need to be primed and painted yet. The mini bell was heavy enough to man-handle up the ladder. To put that incredibly heavy stuff up there will require a cherry picker or scaffolding. The lights are aluminum WRRS. I can wait as I'm happy with this compromise for now.

Looks great!

Something seems a bit off with the flasher timing, but other than that it's amazing! Nice job!

ZachL wrote:Something seems a bit off with the flasher timing, but other than that it's amazing! Nice job!

Actually on older signals, which this is modeled after, the flashing rate is usually slower and in some cases a little uneven (meaning one light stays on longer than the other). Makes it more authentic in my option. Nice job!

cabman701 wrote:

ZachL wrote:Something seems a bit off with the flasher timing, but other than that it's amazing! Nice job!

Actually on older signals, which this is modeled after, the flashing rate is usually slower and in some cases a little uneven (meaning one light stays on longer than the other). Makes it more authentic in my option. Nice job!

Guess you learn something new everyday!

Truth be told I have three US&S FN-16a flasher relays, and one WCH solid state relay. One of the US&S flashes pretty evenly, and for now I keep that at the studio in case I need it. The WCH is pretty even and the rate can be adjusted. I've heard the FN-16a can be tweaked for more even flashing. I suppose I'd prefer that but as cabman701 says, there's something more authentic about the unevenness. I should have gotten a shot of the signal starting up because you get that mini-flurry of flashes before the magnetic passive-resistance settles in which you still see at crossings today and then you know you've got decades-old -- yet perfectly reliable -- technology in that shed.